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Shifter - Downtube - Silver1 (each)

Regular price $37.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $37.00 USD
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Note: We don't recommend these for 11-speed rigs or with modern SRAM derailers, which have an "actuation" ratio that's different. We haven't tested them with those, and have no interest in those. It's kind of a matter of: Pick your solar system and stick with it, do things that others in that solar system do.

Tip: Put some loc-tite on the D-ring bolt threads and you'll likely never have to mess with them. If your shifter loses a little tension, turn it at the next stop or even while you're riding, if you're careful.

These are the best shifters you'll ever set a hand on. There's nothing like them, and if you think your old SunTour barcons are the bee's knees, bless you, but you're living in dreamland.

Their magic is the Power Ratchet inside. The old SunTours had that, too, but this Power Ratchet is a big improvement over that one (and since that one was already fine, this one...must be superfine.) The shifting is smooth, light, simple, fast, and precise. Indexing, in comparison, seems raucous and archaic. They work with any derailleur, and freewheel, cassette, chain, etc., so you have the peace of mind that comes from knowing you'll never be midway between gears and powerless to do anything about it.

There's a short learning curve, but don't let that scare you. Everybody learns fast with these.

The downtubers come just the shifters, because you don't need all the other monkey business. You'll still need cables and a little piece of housing, though. You may already have them, your LBS definitely does, and we definitely do, too.

Silver1 and Silver2 shifters now include new and improved washers that are thicker and made out of UV resistant Black or Dark Grey plastic.

Silver shifters are all aluminum, guts various metals, 'cept for the two plastic washers.


Here is an instructional video showing you how to mount them to the down-tube boss. Click here to watch.

 

If you're putting these on bar end pods or thumb shifter mounts, be sure to match type O to type O, and type X to type X.  In other words, a type X shifter won't go on a type O pod/thumb shifter mount.

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How to shift

1. Pedal like normal until your right foot reaches 4:30. SHIFT.Your right foot should be down around 6:00 (bottom of the stroke).

2. Float your right foot to 12:00 and let your left foot move to about 6:00 but with ZERO pressure on it. Stated another way: Keep the pedals moving (“floating”) for half a revolution, but without pushing on them. By the time your right one reaches 12:00 (sometimes 1:00), the shift will be complete, and you can power on or whatever.

If you tension the chain by pushing down on the left pedal during the FLOAT stage, the chain will be too tensioned to move to the next cog. 

To drive home how important it is to detention the chain, get off your bike, put the front wheel of the bike against a barn, then, with your foot, push down hard on the left (nearest you) pedal, and try to push the upper section of the chain inward. It’s rigid, won’t move. Now, with the same downward pressure, try it with the lower portion of chain, and you’ll see that it’s unaffected by pedal pressure.

When you shift to a lower gear (for instance), the lower chain moves inward to initiate the shift, but if the upper chain is rigid from pedal pressure, it can’t move inward to complete the shift. That’s why you have to sacrifice power (float the pedals) for half a revolution…until the right foot is up around 12:00.


INDEXING doesn't overcome a stiff chain. When you shift in index, the shift still happens the same way--only when the chain is slack. 

If the above lesson seems hard, it isn't. Try it. If you don't want to learn to shift, you can still have a great time riding a bike with indexed shifting.

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As stated above but it can't be said too often: These shifters give immediate and honest feedback, which means you'll learn fast. They are as good as you are, and they will teach you about shifting.

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Rider review:

The ratchet mechanism in my (shimano?) bar ends failed. First I couldn't reach the bottom two gears. Then I couldn't reach the bottom four gears. Then my thighs said "enough!"

Went to fix it by going friction only. No go. Thought I'd work around it by adjusting the cable to give me gears 2 - 5, better to have a limited range of low gears. But wait, all the standard shift cables I have on hand are too short for the 60cm frame I ride. Digging through the parts boxes looking for longer cable I find a set of Silver Downtube shifters intended for another bike.

Parts on hand to create a fully functional bike I go to town on installation. Then I ride and . . . wow. These are great. The shifting is so smooth and the touch to make the shift is so light. Wish I'd done it years ago.

Yay! for a great product.

MR, Portland